The Ingredient Ledger
Every active,
on the record.
INCI name. Mechanism. Evidence grade. Therapeutic concentration range. Photosensitivity. The concerns it addresses, and the products it shows up in. Hyphenated marketing names are noted but not promoted.
18 ingredients · grouped by category, sorted by evidence
Category · 4
Actives
Azelaic Acid
Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and tyrosinase-inhibiting. The 'safe for melanin-rich skin' multi-tasker.
Strong10–20%TXA
Tranexamic AcidInhibits plasmin activity, downregulating melanocyte stimulation triggered by UV and inflammation. Effective on stubborn pigmentation.
Strong2–5%Vitamin A
RetinolConverts to retinoic acid in skin; binds nuclear receptors to upregulate cell turnover, collagen production, and melanin regulation.
Strong0.1–1%PhotosensitizingVitamin B3
NiacinamideInhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes; supports ceramide synthesis; regulates sebum production.
Strong2–10%
Category · 2
Exfoliants
Category · 2
Humectants
Category · 2
Occlusives
Category · 5
Botanicals
Cica
Centella Asiatica ExtractAsiaticoside and madecassoside compounds stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce inflammation. Centerpiece of Korean barrier-rescue formulas.
ModerateSnail Mucin
Snail Secretion FiltrateContains glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and antimicrobial peptides. Promotes fibroblast activity and wound repair.
ModerateBee Propolis
Propolis ExtractAntimicrobial and anti-inflammatory; supports wound repair via flavonoid compounds.
PreliminaryGinseng
Panax Ginseng Root ExtractGinsenosides stimulate circulation and collagen production; antioxidant activity.
PreliminarySausage Tree
Kigelia Africana Fruit ExtractContains saponins and flavonoids with firming and astringent properties. Traditionally used across East and Southern Africa.
Preliminary